Frequently Asked Questions
Dog Separation Anxiety: Your Questions Answered
Answers based on 15 years of experience and data from over 9,000 dogs and their guardians
Understanding Separation Anxiety
Separation anxiety is a panic disorder — not bad behavior, not boredom, not spite. Your dog genuinely panics when left alone or separated from you. It's comparable to a phobia in humans. Dogs with separation anxiety may bark, howl, destroy things, urinate, pace, drool, or try to escape — not because they're being naughty, but because they're terrified. It's one of the most common behavioral issues in dogs and affects dogs of all breeds, ages, and backgrounds.
The signs can range from obvious to subtle. Obvious signs include barking, howling, destructive behavior (especially around doors and windows), urination or defecation, and escape attempts. Subtler signs include pacing, panting, drooling, lip licking, yawning when you pick up your keys, or becoming very still and tense. Many owners don't realize their dog has separation anxiety until they set up a camera and see what happens when they leave. If your dog is fine when you're home but struggles the moment you go, that's the pattern to watch for.
Yes — with the right approach, dogs can learn to be comfortable alone. It's not a quick fix, and "cured" might not be the right word — it's more like teaching your dog a new skill. Through gradual exposure training (also called desensitization), you systematically teach your dog that being alone is safe. Most dogs can reach the point where their owners can leave for normal amounts of time — work, errands, social events — without any distress. Over 9,000 dogs have been through this process with Be Right Back, and the data shows that people who stick with training succeed.
Unfortunately, no. Separation anxiety rarely improves without intervention, and it often gets worse over time. Every time your dog panics when left alone, it reinforces the fear. The good news is that structured training works. It doesn't have to take over your life — even short daily sessions make a difference. But waiting and hoping it resolves on its own typically leads to the problem becoming more entrenched.
Not usually. While some puppies grow out of mild separation distress, true separation anxiety in adult dogs tends to persist or worsen without training. Age alone won't fix it. The sooner you start working on it, the faster you'll see results — but it's never too late. We've worked with dogs of all ages, from puppies to senior dogs, who've made excellent progress.
When It Feels Overwhelming
First, take a breath. It's common for separation anxiety to feel like it's getting worse, especially if you've been trying things that aren't working (like ignoring the barking, or flooding your dog by leaving for long periods). Stop doing anything that forces your dog to be alone for longer than they can handle — that's making it worse. Then start with a proper desensitization program that builds duration gradually from wherever your dog is right now, even if that's just a few seconds. The right approach starts from your dog's current comfort level, not from where you wish they were.
You're not alone in feeling this way, and you're not being dramatic. Separation anxiety affects your life enormously — you can't go to work easily, you can't pop to the shops, you feel guilty leaving the house, and your social life suffers. The emotional toll on owners is real and underestimated. The most important thing is to know that this is fixable. Start with a structured training approach and, if possible, arrange management in the meantime — dog sitters, daycare, taking your dog with you, or working from home when you can. Training gives you your freedom back, but management keeps you sane while you get there.
In the short term, you manage it: arrange a dog sitter, use daycare, take your dog with you, ask friends or family to help, or work from home when possible. You're not "giving in" by doing this — you're preventing your dog from rehearsing panic, which makes training faster. In the longer term, you train it: use gradual exposure to systematically increase the time your dog can be alone. Start from a duration your dog can handle comfortably (even if that's 10 seconds) and build up from there. The combination of management plus training is what works.
Training
The gold-standard treatment is gradual exposure (desensitization). You start at a duration your dog can handle without panicking — even if that's stepping out the door and immediately coming back — and you very gradually increase that time. Each session, your dog learns that being alone is safe because you always come back before they panic. It's the same approach used to treat phobias in humans, adapted for dogs. The Be Right Back app automates this: it generates your daily training plan based on your dog's previous sessions and tracks your progress over time. The method is backed by science and has been used successfully by over 9,000 dogs and their guardians.
It varies. Some dogs reach an hour within a few weeks. Others take several months. It depends on the severity, your dog's temperament, how consistent you are with training, whether medication is part of the plan, and other factors in your dog's life. The key finding from our data across thousands of families is that people who stick with training succeed. It's not about speed — it's about consistency. Even 15-20 minutes of training a day, done regularly, adds up to real progress.
Most dogs with separation anxiety do worse in a crate, not better. Crating a panicking dog can increase their distress and lead to injury from escape attempts. However, some dogs genuinely feel safer in their crate — if your dog chooses to go to their crate voluntarily and settles there, it may work for yours. The test is simple: set up a camera and watch. If your dog is calm and relaxed in the crate when you leave, keep using it. If they're panting, pacing, barking, or trying to get out, the crate is making things worse. There's no one-size-fits-all answer — it depends on your individual dog.
The barking and howling are symptoms of the underlying panic, not the problem itself. Trying to stop the barking directly (with anti-bark devices, punishment, or ignoring it) won't work because your dog isn't choosing to bark — they're panicking. The only way to stop the barking is to address the separation anxiety through gradual exposure training. As your dog learns to be comfortable alone, the barking naturally stops. In the meantime, management (not leaving your dog alone for longer than they can handle) prevents the barking from practicing and getting worse.
Medication
For many dogs, yes. Medication can reduce your dog's baseline anxiety enough that training becomes more effective. Think of it as taking the edge off so your dog can actually learn from the training, rather than being too overwhelmed to process anything. Medication isn't a cure on its own — it works best combined with a behavior modification program. Talk to your vet or a veterinary behaviorist about whether medication might be appropriate for your dog. There's no shame in using medication — it's a legitimate, evidence-based tool.
The most commonly prescribed medications include fluoxetine (Reconcile/Prozac), clomipramine (Clomicalm), and trazodone. Your vet may also recommend situational medications for acute anxiety. The right medication depends on your dog's specific situation, and it typically takes 4-6 weeks to see the full effects of daily medications. Always work with your vet — never give your dog human medication without veterinary guidance. Medication combined with training is often the fastest path to progress for dogs with moderate to severe separation anxiety.
Puppies
Yes, puppies can develop separation anxiety, though it's important to distinguish between normal puppy distress and true separation anxiety. It's completely normal for a young puppy to cry when left alone — they've just left their mother and littermates. This usually resolves as they settle in. True separation anxiety in puppies looks more extreme: intense, prolonged distress that doesn't improve with time. If your puppy is still panicking after a reasonable settling-in period, it's worth addressing early. Early intervention is much easier than treating an established problem.
Start from day one by teaching your puppy that being alone is normal and safe. Practice short absences — step out of sight for a few seconds and come back. Play "Puppy Peekaboo" where you disappear and reappear, making it a game. Gradually increase the time you're out of sight. Spread the love so your puppy bonds with multiple family members, not just one person. Avoid making departures and arrivals dramatic. And most importantly, don't feel guilty about leaving your puppy alone for age-appropriate periods — learning to be alone is a critical life skill for dogs.
Day-to-Day Life
Yes, but you'll need a management plan while you train. Management means making sure your dog isn't left alone for longer than they can currently handle. Options include doggy daycare, a dog sitter or dog walker, taking your dog to work if possible, asking a friend or family member to help, or working from home on some days. Management isn't the solution — training is — but management keeps everyone sane and prevents your dog from rehearsing panic while you build up their alone time through training.
Aim for at least one session a day, ideally 5-7 days a week. Sessions don't need to be long — even 15-20 minutes of structured training is effective. Consistency matters more than duration. Training every day for short periods will get you further than occasional long sessions. If you miss a day, don't panic — your dog won't lose their progress from one missed session. But if you take a long break, expect to spend a session or two rebuilding to where you were.
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Still have questions?
I cover separation anxiety in depth on my podcast, or you can get personalized help through the Be Right Back program.